PASSAGE TO INDIA | Cordell Ave, Bethesda, MD 20814 | Exciting, Trendy Indian Restaurant

Cuisine: Elegant Indian that goes beyond the usual – chef/owner Sudhir Seth’s menu spans the subcontinent with regional entrees that remind us that Indian cuisine is as varied and complex as any.

Mood: The formal servers and the dining room decorated with portraits of rajahs and viceroys and carvings of Hindu gods conjure the Raj as portrayed in the film A Passage to India.

Best for: Adventurous groups willing to explore - and share – exotic flavors.

Best dishes: Sev-Murmura chaat, a bizarrely delicious salad of puffed rice and vermicelli with cilantro, dates and tamarind; lentil “pebbles” flavored with ginger and dates; lamb curry with apricots and straw potatoes; succulent tandoori chicken; kulcha, bread stuffed with lightly spiced onions; and a pickle platter to cut the heat and weight of the curries.

Insider tips: You can travel the subcontinent two ways here – by jumping around the menu choosing something from each region or with a more methodical exploration – say, of the Parsi specialties of western India. Don’t see your favorite dish? Just ask.

Open daily for lunch and dinner. Moderate.